Luxury Design, Past & Present
Kathe Ruckenbrod: Modernist Moonstone Gold Necklace
18K gold, moonstone cabochons (approx. 50 carat in total)
L 40.3 cm (approx. 15 7/8"), W 1.2 cm (approx. 1/2")
Weight approx. 46 grams
Marks: maker’s mark ‘K.RU’, gold content mark ‘750’
Germany, 1960s – 70s
Golden discs with spiral motifs alternate with oval moonstone cabochons of a fine blueish adularescence, maybe meant to symbolize sun and moon in their endless cycle.
The pittoresque quality of the slightly irregular gold spirals corresponds with the slight irregularity in size and curvature of the moonstone cabochons.
Kathe Ruckenbrod (1905-1989) is well known for her enamel jewellery, objects and utensils. Their exceptional quality in design and making won her numerous awards (e.g. Hessian State Prize for German Applied Arts in 1953; gold medal Milan Triennale 1954). Lesser known – probably because many of them were either unique pieces or made to order – are her exquisite jewellery designs executed in gold and precious stones.